Dandyism is a style and philosophy characterized by an individual's meticulous attention to fashion, grooming, and manners—often seen as both self-expression and a subtle rebellion against social norms. It's not just about aesthetics; it's about how a person presents themselves and the social message their appearance conveys. So, it's no surprise that Black men have held a unique place in the world of fashion dandyism. Often forced to craft their own identity outside of the mainstream, Black men infused their artistic style and refinement into fashion, capturing the essence of their times.
A dandy is a man who places particular—and sometimes excessive—importance on his physical appearance and personal grooming. He is often a self-made man, both in persona and presence, who reinvents himself to emulate an aristocratic lifestyle regardless of his humble origins. The concept of the dandy gained popularity in the late 18th and early 19th centuries.
Fast forward to the New World, where Black men found themselves outsiders longing to be part of the American way. Black dandyism as a cultural movement emerged in the early 20th century, rooted in an aesthetic of individuality and expressed through impeccable grooming and dress. It gained prominence after Emancipation and during the Harlem Renaissance, when Black individuals embraced European-style fashion—like the zoot suits popularized by Cab Calloway, Sammy Davis Jr., Malcolm X, and others—worn in dance halls and ballrooms to assert creative independence in the face of racial discrimination.
In addition to the Harlem Renaissance's explosion of music, literature, and art, Black men began championing a bold new "visual identity" through fashion. Costume designer Ruth E. Carter described Black dandyism as a “form of performance, identity, and individuality.” She also associated "dressing fine" with acts of rebellion and provocation. Playwright and actor Jeremy O. Harris called the Black dandy “the type of man who flaunts his elevated wares much to the awe and fright of many around him… a rewriter of narratives—the narratives carved into a society’s understanding about the communities from which the dandy has emerged.”
Today, in 2025, Black dandyism is front and center. The theme for the May 5, 2025, Met Gala—"Tailored for You"—was based on Black dandyism and marked the first-ever Met Gala theme dedicated exclusively to Black designers. The exhibition was divided into 12 sections: Ownership, Presence, Distinction, Disguise, Freedom, Champion, Respectability, Jook, Heritage, Beauty, Cool, and Cosmopolitanism.
The gala's co-chairs and hosts included Janelle Monáe, Pharrell Williams, A$AP Rocky, LeBron James, Colman Domingo, and Edward Enninful. The event featured curation by Monica L. Miller, whose 2009 book Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity inspired the gala’s theme. The evening raised a record-breaking $31 million.
Names like Dapper Dan, Janelle Monáe, and the late, great André Leon Talley are iconic for their bold, tailored approaches to style—vivid colors, high-quality fabrics, statement silhouettes, capes, and theatrical flair. Fashion historians agree that what unites them is a commitment to refined, personalized tailoring that epitomizes dandyism.
Black style doesn’t begin or end with dandyism, but it was certainly a highlight of the Spring 2025 Costume Institute exhibition titled "Superfine: Tailoring for Black People." South African philanthropist and fashion entrepreneur Precious Moloi-Motsepe—one of the richest women in South Africa—partnered with the Met Gala, in collaboration with Vogue and the Anna Wintour Costume Center, to bring the exhibition to life.